Kashmir guide · Winter
Kashmir in December, January and February.
Winter is the season for snow: Gulmarg under deep cover, the pines of Pahalgam white, Dal Lake still and cold. It is also the season when a plan needs slack. Here is what each winter month is like and what stays open.
Snow in Gulmarg
Usually December to March
Srinagar, day / night
About 6–9 °C / −2–0 °C
Coldest spell
Chillai Kalan, about 21 Dec to end Jan
Closed in winter
Gurez, Mughal Road, Zojila
The short answer
Come in winter for snow, and keep a spare day.
Snow usually settles in Gulmarg in December and stays until March; Srinagar gets snowfalls too, most often in January. Srinagar days are around 6 to 9 °C and nights at or below freezing. Srinagar, Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg are all reachable in winter, but Gurez, the Mughal Road and Zojila are closed, and heavy snow can hold up flights or the Jammu–Srinagar highway for a day. Leave one free day at the end of the trip.
By Shahid Parvez Khan (Local Operations Lead)·Published by Falcon Trails·Updated
December, January and February compared
| Month | Srinagar day / night (°C) | Snow | What it is like |
|---|---|---|---|
| December | 9 / −2 | First snow at altitude; Gulmarg usually white by late December | Ski season begins. Christmas and New Year are the busiest weeks of winter. |
| January | 6 / −2 | Gulmarg deep in snow, and the best chance of snow in Srinagar | Chillai Kalan, the coldest weeks. Short days, frozen edges on Dal Lake. |
| February | 9 / 0 | Gulmarg snow at its deepest | Still winter. The valley floor starts to thaw late in the month. |
Kashmir in December
December is when winter arrives. Snow usually reaches Gulmarg during the month, and some years Srinagar sees its first fall before Christmas. Chillai Kalan, the forty coldest days, begins around 21 December.
The last ten days of the month are the busiest of the winter: Christmas and New Year bring a rush to Gulmarg and the better Srinagar hotels and houseboats. If those dates are fixed for you, book early. The first half of December is quieter and usually cheaper, but snow is less certain then.
Kashmir in January
January is the heart of Chillai Kalan and the coldest month in Srinagar, with nights below zero. It is also your best chance of seeing snow in the city itself, not only in Gulmarg. The edges and shallow parts of Dal Lake freeze in the coldest spells; a full freeze is rare.
Days are short, so plan sightseeing between late morning and mid-afternoon, and keep evenings for a heated room. Kashmiris still carry the kangri, a small clay pot of embers inside a wicker basket, under their pheran in the coldest weeks.
Kashmir in February
February has the deepest snow of the year in Gulmarg, which makes it a strong month for skiing and for snow without the New Year crowds. Pahalgam gets snow on the valley floor in January and February, though it melts faster than Gulmarg’s. Late in the month Srinagar begins to thaw, and by March almond blossom starts at Badamwari.
What is open in Kashmir in winter
| Place | In winter | What to know |
|---|---|---|
| Srinagar | Open | Houseboats and hotels stay open; ask whether your room has heating. The Mughal gardens are bare until spring. |
| Gulmarg | Open, under snow | After snowfall, cars need snow chains or a switch to a local 4x4 at Tangmarg for the last stretch. See our Srinagar to Gulmarg route guide. |
| Gulmarg Gondola | Runs, weather permitting | Phase 2 to Apharwat closes in high wind and bad weather, more often in winter. |
| Pahalgam | Open | Snow on the valley floor in January and February; the side valleys go by local union taxi. |
| Sonamarg | Reachable | The Sonamarg (Z-Morh) tunnel, opened in January 2025, keeps the road to Sonamarg open in winter. Much of it is under snow, and the road on to Zojila is closed. |
| Gurez | Closed | The Razdan pass road closes with the snow, roughly November to April. |
| Mughal Road | Closed | Open only in summer and autumn. |
| Zojila and the road to Ladakh | Closed | Usually open from around April or May to November. Ladakh in winter is by air only. |
| Jammu–Srinagar highway | Open | Heavy snow or landslides can close it for a day; the railway is the other way in. |
Planning around snow
Heavy snowfall can delay or cancel flights at Srinagar and close the road to Gulmarg or the Jammu–Srinagar highway for a day. None of this is unusual, and none of it ruins a trip that has slack built in.
- Keep the last day of the trip light, so a delay does not cost you your flight home.
- Do not book an important onward connection on the same day as a winter flight out of Srinagar.
- Travel between towns in daylight. Black ice forms on mountain roads as the light goes.
- In Gulmarg, come down from the meadow by late afternoon in deep winter.
- Keep cash: card machines and mobile data are less reliable at altitude.
What to wear in Kashmir in winter
Dress in layers rather than one heavy coat: thermal base layers, a fleece or wool layer, and a windproof, waterproof outer jacket. Add waterproof boots with a good grip, gloves, a warm cap and woollen socks. Snow boots and long coats can be hired at Tangmarg if you would rather not carry them. Our things to carry and packing guide has the full list.
A winter trip that works
Four or five nights is enough for a first winter trip: Srinagar on a heated houseboat or hotel, one or two nights in Gulmarg for snow at sunrise and the gondola, and a day in Pahalgam if the roads are clear. Skiers need longer in Gulmarg; read our Gulmarg skiing guide. Our winter snow package keeps it simple: two nights in Gulmarg, with Srinagar on either side.
Editorial & Ground Verification
Verified by local ground planners
Published by Shahid Parvez Khan
Founder & Lead Planner, Falcon Trails · Operating Kashmir mountain routes since 2010 · shahid.co.in
Ground-checked from our operations desk in Barbarshah / Munawara Abad, Srinagar. Mountain pass access, union taxi rates, and hotel heating conditions are verified directly with local drivers and property managers before guest departures.
Ground Dispatch & Preferred Source
Bookmark Falcon Trails for real-time mountain pass advisories (Zojila, Razdan, Sinthan) and weather alerts directly from Srinagar.
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Questions
What people ask us.
Does it snow in Srinagar in December?
Some years, yes, and sometimes before Christmas. Snow in Srinagar is likelier in January. Gulmarg usually has snow by late December.
Is Gulmarg open in December and January?
Yes. Winter is Gulmarg’s main season. After snowfall, cars need chains or a local 4x4 for the last stretch from Tangmarg, and the gondola’s Phase 2 closes in high wind.
How cold is Kashmir in January?
Srinagar averages about 6 °C by day and below freezing at night. Gulmarg is usually 6 to 10 °C colder. With layers and a heated room it is comfortable.
Does Dal Lake freeze in winter?
The edges and shallow parts freeze in the coldest weeks of Chillai Kalan. A full freeze is rare.
Which month is best for snow in Kashmir?
January gives the best chance of snow in Srinagar. February has the deepest snow in Gulmarg. December is the start of the season and the busiest at New Year.
Can I visit Sonamarg in winter?
Yes. Since the Sonamarg tunnel opened in January 2025 the road to Sonamarg stays open in winter, though much of the area is under snow and the road beyond to Zojila is closed.
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